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How High Can They Go?

Saturday 16 April 2011

Just when you think that a restaurant has hit its peak, it usually goes one of two ways: a precipitous drop, or a break-out leap to new heights.

With Morning Glory, long our favorite breakfast restaurant in town, it’s the latter.

They just finished their long-in-the-making kitchen remodel, and it’s supposed to be much better for all the staff. And they took the opportunity to update the much portion of the menu, adding new sandwiches and expanding the burgers from the one-size-fits-all version from before to the new build-your-own type. The new menu section (click for a bigger version):

Now, not too long ago we went to Portland in part to try the biscuit magic at Pine State Biscuits. So I had to try the first item on Morning Glory’s new lunch menu, a buttermilk biscuit with fried chicken, romaine, and ranch dressing.

Morning Glory did not disappoint. A creamy, delicate biscuit that would be fantastic on its own, with a perfectly friend chicken breast, and a generous dollop of ranch dressing (it actually tasted more like French–some extra sweetness and tartness that I don’t expect in ranch). And a large serving of excellent Yukon Gold french fries (that’s why they look short–Yukon Golds are small):

I ate it like a sandwich, which is a bit messy; not so much as the lamb burger with tomato chutney (the old style, ask for it that way), but the biscuit is not as solid a wrapper as a bun, so expect to be licking your fingers (oh, what a shame!)

I asked the waitress about maybe doing it Pine State style sometime. I think I frightened her just a bit with the description (biscuit, chicken, cheese, sausage gravy, bacon, biscuit), but I suspect that sometime in the next few weeks Patty will privately give it a try, just to see…

I can’t wait to try out more of the new lunch menu. Lunch at Morning Glory just went from the also-ran to an equal partner with their excellent breakfasts.

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